Materials and Care:

Veg-Tan Leather

Care: A horsehair brush — or a quick buff with whatever soft cloth's on hand, your shirt or your jeans — keeps it clean and brings up the shine. That's genuinely all most pieces need.

For a deeper clean, saddle soap works well on finished, dyed pieces. Follow the product's instructions, spot-test a hidden area first, and know that it may darken or alter the color slightly.

Natural, undyed veg-tan: the exception — skip soaps, oils, and waxes, which darken and blotch raw leather unevenly. A light brushing is all it wants. Once it's built up real patina, it may tolerate a saddle-soap cleaning every year or two if necessary.

Avoid: prolonged soaking, direct heat when drying (let it air-dry away from sun), and heavy conditioners on natural veg-tan.

Shell Cordovan

Care:
Cordovan is as low- or high-maintenance as you want it to be. At one end, a quick rub with a soft cloth — your sleeve, your jeans — settles the surface and keeps the shine up. At the other, a horsehair brush and a cream made for cordovan can bring it to a mirror.

Either way, the leather is forgiving. Use it, brush it off now and then, and it'll only get better.

Water: cordovan can spot or bloom if water sits on it. If it gets wet, blot gently with a soft cloth — don't rub — and let it air-dry away from heat. Light water marks often settle back in on their own as the piece is used and brushed.

Reverse shell cordovan: some pieces use the cordovan reversed — the natural underside turned out, for a softer, more textured surface and a faster, more rugged patina. Care is much the same, with two differences: it won't polish to a high shine the way standard shell does, and it patinas largely on its own, just from being carried. Brush it now and then to settle the surface, and if you use any cream, use even less than you would on standard shell.

Avoid: generic leather conditioners and waxes not made for cordovan, and direct heat when drying.

Solid Brass

Care: Patina or polish — your call. Left alone, brass deepens into a warm, antique tone over time. For a quick refresh, a dry cloth buffs off dulling and lifts light tarnish without any risk.

If you want it brighter: brass polish will bring back full shine — but it stains leather, and our hardware is set into the leather. Apply it sparingly to a cloth, never straight onto the piece, and keep it well clear of the surrounding leather.

Waxed Thread

Care: None required. The wax protects the thread and helps it shed dirt, and because each seam is saddle-stitched by hand, a single nicked stitch won't unravel the row. If a thread end ever lifts, don't pull it — trim it close. If you know your way around waxed thread, a flame held briefly near the end (not to it) will melt it back down; otherwise, leave it to us — see Repairs below.

Repairs

We stand behind what we make. If your piece ever needs attention — a loose stitch, hardware that's working loose, or anything else — send us a note and a photo and we'll tell you what we can do. We handle repairs case by case, and we'd always rather bring a piece back to life than see it retired.

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